The most important considerations when installing a shower.
What is the most effective method for installing a shower?
A mixer shower with or without a pump, a power shower, or an electric shower are all options. A heating element, similar to that found in a kettle, heats the water as it passes through an electric shower. Before you can begin installing your shower, you must first prepare the pipes and create an electrical connection. There is no need for a pump if you have a combination boiler or if your cold water is delivered directly from the mains water supply. An electric shower needs its own dedicated circuit from the consumer unit, and the final connection should be completed by an electrician for your own safety.
To protect the circuit, an RCD must be fitted (residual current device) When you turn on the water, make sure your rail is high enough so your shower head does not dangle less than 25mm below the spill-over level of your bath, shower tray, wash basin, or bidet. If your thermostatic mixer shower does not have a pump, you may still use branch pipe connections to get water from your hot and cold plumbing systems. The shower unit should not be installed in an area where it will be exposed to freezing temperatures in the winter. Before you install the shower, double-check that all of the required components are there and in working order. The quantity of water that runs through the shower head may be more than quadrupled with a thermostatic mixer shower.
To get the most out of it, you may need to upgrade to a bigger hot water storage tank. Although a booster pump is a wonderful idea, it cannot be directly connected to a combi boiler or cold water supply from the mains. A shower tray is easy to install, however various designs may need different installation methods. Before you begin building your enclosure, make sure you have your shower tray, mixing valve, plumbing, and tiling in place. You may choose from a variety of door styles for your enclosure, including hinged and pivoting doors, folding and sliding doors, and more.
You may have a few options if your floor is solid or if you can't create enough of a fall for drainage under a suspended floor. Before you make your final choice, you may need to work out how you'll run the drainage pipes and how much height you'll need under the tray for the plumbing. You may raise the tray above the floor by putting it on a pedestal if you select an enclosure with a step up to the tray. If there isn't enough space for a shallow P-trap, a compact trap may be put under the shower tray instead. Remove the enclosure and check under the fastening places using an electronic detector for hidden pipes and cables.
Make sure the wall plugs are put all the way into the holes, so they extend beyond the tile's depth. You don't want to do it yourself? We work with licensed professionals to make sure your bathroom remodel goes smoothly from start to finish. It's important to pick a shower that's suitable with your home's plumbing system when making your purchase. Showers are also put together in a variety of ways, which should be taken into account. Use our installation instructions to help you install your new shower.
Choosing a shower - what kind of water distribution system do you have?
Gravity-fed systems (those that include a hot water cylinder in the basement and a cold water storage cistern in the attic) provide you the greatest flexibility in terms of installation. You may opt for a mixer shower with or without a pump, a power shower or an electric shower. A mixer shower or an electric shower are the only choices if you have a combination boiler or if your cold water is supplied straight from the mains water supply. This is due to the fact that a combi boiler or mains supply does not allow for the installation of a pump.
Installing an electric shower: A step-by-step guide
An electric shower is equipped with a heating element, similar to that of a kettle, that warms the water as it flows past it. You may adjust the temperature of the water by varying the pace at which it passes over the heating element. Because most showers are not equipped with a thermostat, the temperature of the entering water will affect the temperature of your shower. You may put an electric shower over your bath or in a separate cubicle. When choosing where to place it, make sure you allow enough space around it to be able to remove the front cover in the event that it has to be serviced. The water supply pipe may enter the unit from the top, bottom, or rear, depending on the kind of unit being used. Check the manufacturer's instructions and make sure you have the proper quantity of cable coming from the wall to connect it to the terminal block before proceeding. Water should be turned on before to attaching your unit in order to remove any dirt from the water intake line, as any tiny particles may cause harm to your new shower. Then turn the water off and empty the pipe.
It is necessary to prepare the pipes and establish an electrical supply before you can begin installing your shower. Getting the piping ready. Pour cold water into the shower from a single 15mm pipe that runs from a cold water source close to the storage tank to a wall where the shower will be installed. Place a marker at the location of the intake pipe and power supply cable while holding the shower unit in place. Before drilling through the wall, make sure you use a pipe and cable detector to ensure there are no concealed pipes or cables. Next, insert the pipe through the wall at the location you've designated. Install an isolating valve in the pipe and connect it to the device using the appropriate connection.
Providing the electrical power source. Make a hole in the wall to accommodate the electric wire. Remember that the length of the cable run and the kilowatt rating of the shower unit are also factors to consider, so consult the manufacturer's instructions before purchasing the cable. Run a wire from the shower unit location to a double-pole pull-cord switch that is placed on the ceiling. In accordance with the IEE Wiring Regulations, this must have an on/off indication, and it must not be installed in Hazard Zones 1 or 2 of the building. An electric shower requires its own dedicated circuit from the consumer unit, and for your own safety, you should have an electrician do the final connection. An RCD must also be installed to safeguard the circuit (residual current device).
- Hold the shower unit in place and use a chinagraph pencil to mark the locations of the mounting holes. Using a masonry bit, drill holes at the locations that have been indicated. A tile bit or masking tape applied to the tiles before drilling can help prevent the drill bit from sliding when drilling into a tiled surface. Install some wall plugs and apply a little amount of hygienic silicone sealant to each one of them.
- In order to use the device, you must feed the pipe and power wire via the backplate. Then attach it to the wall using the screws that came with it.
- Connect the intake pipe to your shower unit, tightening the compression fitting using a pipe wrench to ensure it is secure.
- Connect the cable's live and neutral cores to the 'load' terminals on the unit, and the cable's earth core to the unit's earth terminal to secure the connection to the unit.
- Ensure that the rubber seal is properly installed by following the manufacturer's recommendations while installing the cover.
- Make sure you install your rail high enough so that your shower head does not hang less than 25mm below the spill-over level of your bath, shower tray, wash basin, or bidet when you turn on the water. Otherwise, filthy water may re-enter your clean water supply via a leak.
- One end of the hose should be screwed into the handset, making sure to include any washers that came with it. Make sure everything is functioning properly by following the manufacturer's directions, and then finally screw in the other end of the hose to your shower unit.
What you need to know about installing a thermostatic mixer shower
If your thermostatic mixer shower does not have a pump, you may still supply it with water from your hot and cold plumbing systems via branch pipe connections. Connect them as close to your cold and hot water tanks as feasible, then run them to the shower location and out through the wall. In a gravity-fed system, the height of the cold water tank above your shower determines the pressure of both the hot and cold water flowing through it. To get a good flow rate and pressure from your shower head without a pump, you'll need at least one metre of space between the bottom of your tank and the shower head. It may be necessary to elevate your cold water tank or install a pump in your system if there isn't enough height difference between the two of you.
Precautions should be taken in this situation.
Before you begin using your mixer, double-check that it has been installed, commissioned, operated, and maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications. Pay careful attention to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. The shower unit must not be placed in a location where it will be subjected to freezing temperatures during the winter. Check the contents to make sure that all of the necessary components are present and correct. Ensure that all of the valve holes have been adequately covered before starting the mixer installation to avoid any dirt from entering the system while working on the supply pipework.
- Verify the kind of wall you have and whether or not the shower valve is suitable for it before installing the shower.
- Installing the plumbing for the shower area may begin once you have determined where you want your shower to be placed and which way the pipes will enter (for example, rising, falling, or rear entry). As a result, it is essential that the hot and cold water pipes be securely linked within the wall or panel in order to support the valve and prevent it from moving after it has been mounted.
- Caution! Make a last check to ensure that the compression olives are correctly placed and that all piping has been completely cleaned before connecting the shower valve. By turning on the water supply, you can check for leaks.
- Install the outlet fittings in the appropriate locations (for particular installation instructions, refer to the installation handbook provided by the manufacturer).
Including a pump is a good idea.
Adding a booster pump to your thermostatic mixer shower may more than quadruple the amount of water that flows through the shower head. You may conceal the pump under a bath or tuck it away in an airing closet or attic so that it is not visible to guests (although you might hear it in action). However, keep in mind that you cannot connect a pump to a combi boiler or a cold water supply that comes directly from the mains. And, in order to get the most out of it, you may need to upgrade to a larger hot water storage tank.
Instructions on how to install a shower mixer valve and rail
Set your shower rail high enough to accommodate the tallest person in your household, but not so low that your shower head dangles any lower than 25mm below the spill-over level of the shower tray, bath, or adjacent basin, since this may cause injury. If it is too low, used water may be reintroduced into your household's water supply.
1. To begin, plug the opening surrounding each intake pipe with a hygienic silicone sealant to prevent water from entering. Turn on both the hot and cold water faucets to flush out the pipes and fittings. Then, before you connect your pipe trims, attach a coupler to each pipe and tighten the thermostatic mixer valve using an adjustable wrench using the adjustable spanner. Check for leaks by turning on the hot and cold water simultaneously. If everything is waterproof, you may remove the mixer and replace it with the chrome pipe trims before reinstalling the mixer.
2. Attach the lever and holder to the slider rail using the provided screws. Then, at the ends of the rail, attach the brackets and mark the location of the fixing hole for the lowest bracket with a pencil.
3. To begin, use an electronic detector to thoroughly inspect the area to ensure that there are no concealed pipes or wires. Once you've indicated the location of the bottom bracket, drill a pilot hole through it. Install a wall plug and apply a little amount of sanitary silicone sealant to the plug's threads.
4. Remove the slider rail from the brackets and insert the provided screw into the bottom hole of the bottom bracket to secure it in place. To determine the location of the top fixing hole, just reattach the rail to the bottom bracket and attach the other mounting bracket to the top of the rail, as shown in the illustration. Check the verticality of the piece with a spirit level, and note the location of the top fixing hole on the wall.
5. Remove the railing and proceed to drill and plug the wall in the same manner as previously. After that, with the rail in position, screw in the top bracket. Last but not least, attach bracket covers to the top and bottom brackets.
Installing a shower tray is a simple process.
When the waste piping is complete, you may install your shower tray and connect the waste outlet of the shower tray to the trap in the bathroom. However, be sure to read the manufacturer's installation instructions before proceeding, since various designs may need somewhat different installation procedures.
1. Holding the tray on its side, run a bead of sanitary silicone sealant around the waste opening until it is completely sealed.
2. Make sure that the waste outlet is inserted into the hole so that it is sealed with the sealant. Verify that any washers that were provided have been installed before screwing the locking nut into place using an adjustable spanner. After that, you may attach the trap to the waste discharge.
3. Put on a pair of safety gloves and begin mixing up the mortar. Using a trowel, apply a thin coating of glue to the floor where your tray will be placed, and then secure it in place.
4. Bed the tray into the mortar, using a spirit level to make sure it isn't sloping in any directions. Depending on how difficult it is to make it precisely level, you may need to raise the tray and adjust the mortar. Using the trowel, clean up the edges and remove any extra mortar that has accumulated. After that, complete the work by opening the floor hatch and attaching the trap to the waste pipe, if necessary.
Installing a shower enclosure is a simple process.
You may purchase a shower enclosure as part of a new bathroom installation or as an addition to an existing bathroom suite. They may be placed in a corner of a room or against a flat wall depending on their size. There are a number of door types available for your enclosure, including hinged and pivoting doors, as well as folding and sliding doors, which are excellent space-saving options. You'll need to have your shower tray, mixing valve, piping, and tiling in place before you can begin installing your enclosure. However, there are many other designs available, and each is placed in a slightly different manner from the one shown here, so be sure to read the manufacturer's directions before proceeding with your project. It is critical that the wall and tray of any enclosure be completely watertight, and that the frame's uprights be vertical. Taking a shower generates a lot of steam and condensation, which may cause damp issues. As a result, it is highly recommended that you consider installing an extractor fan to ventilate your space.
Waste pipes and a trap are included.
Before you choose your shower enclosure, you'll need to figure out how you're going to run the drainage pipes and how much height you'll need beneath the tray for the piping before you make your final decision. It is possible that you will be able to make a hole in the floor to accommodate the waste pipe. If this is the case, you'll also need to construct an access hatch. In order to do this, you may either expand the waste trap hole beyond where the outer border of the shower tray will be, or you can create a secondary hatch nearby that is within reach of the trap. Depending on whether your floor is solid or if you are unable to provide enough of a fall for drainage beneath a suspended floor, you may have a number of choices. Alternatively, you might choose an enclosure with a step up to the tray, or you could choose to elevate the tray above the floor by installing it on a pedestal. Instead of a shallow P-trap, a compact trap may be installed beneath the shower tray if there isn't enough room there for one. This is specifically designed to provide you with the required water seal while being shallow enough to fit under the majority of contemporary shower tray configurations. Cleanup is further simplified by the grid's detachable design.
- Place the two fixed side panels on a level surface and liberally apply sanitary silicone sealant to the curved grooves at the top and bottom of the panels. Set aside. Then, using the screws that were supplied, connect the head and sill rails, taking care not to overtighten the screws.
- Insert the plastic guide tracks into the head and sill rails using your fingers.
- If the plastic guide tracks are too lengthy, you may cut them down using a junior hacksaw to make them shorter.
- In the head and sill rails, insert two door stops into the guide track to keep the doors closed. You may move them to the center, but don't worry about fixing them just now.
- Place the shower enclosure on its side and move the curved sliding doors into the head and sill rails, ensuring sure that the doors are positioned correctly. Then insert another doorstop into both the head and sill rails of the opening.
- Assemble the enclosure by attaching the wall channels to each side of the enclosure and placing it on the tray, making sure it is upright using a level. Then, working from the inside of the enclosure, use a chinagraph pencil to mark the location of the fixing holes through the pre-drilled holes in the wall channels, as shown in the illustration.
- Remove the enclosure and use an electronic detector to search for concealed pipes and wires beneath the fixing locations. Remove the enclosure and replace it. If everything seems to be in order, drill fixing holes in the indicated locations. Make sure that the wall plugs are pushed into the holes all the way, so that they extend beyond the depth of the tile.
- Run a continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant along both wall channels. (See illustration.) After that, attach the enclosure to the base using the screws that were provided. Remove any extra sealer with a damp cloth and refer to the instructions for any final adjustments to be made to the sliding doors.
- Drill through the holes in the wall channels and into the frame, starting from the inside out. Screw in the screws that have been supplied and cover the heads of the screws with screw covers. Drill a hole through the plastic track and inner head channel of the doorstops, and then screw them into place.
- Apply a continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant to the joint between the tray and the tiled wall to complete the seal. Carry out the same procedure along the perimeter of the enclosure.
During the installation process, safety comes first.
Installation of these items must be done in line with local building codes in order to ensure your safety. Contact a qualified professional who is registered with an electrical certification system if you are in any doubt or if the law requires you to do so. Additional information is accessible on the internet or through your local government. Unless otherwise specified, all new and modified installations must conform with the most recent IEE Wiring Regulations. Either hire an electrician who is registered with the self certification system specified in the rules, or if you do the work yourself, you must inform your local authority's building control department so that your work may be examined and tested before it is considered complete. Don't feel like doing it yourself? We can assist you. We collaborate with authorized installers to ensure that your bathroom renovation runs smoothly from beginning to end. Our selection of various financing choices ensures that you will discover a plan that meets your needs. In addition, we provide a 2-year craftsmanship warranty for your peace of mind. Find out more about our installation service and schedule a free planning consultation to get started right away!
Tips on how to build a shower
- Shower pumps, as well as hand shower pumps, are available for use.
- Similar to a kettle, an electric shower has a heating element, which heats the water as it runs by.
- Prepare the pipes and install an electrical supply prior to installing your shower.
- A combination boiler or if your cold water is delivered directly from the mains water supply doesn't need a pump.
- To protect the circuit, an RCD is required (residual current device) Ensure you place your rail above the spillover level of your bath, shower tray, wash basin, or bidet when you turn on the water.
- You may still provide water for your thermostatic shower using branch pipe connections from your hot and cold plumbing systems.
- The shower unit should not be located in an area where it may freeze during the winter.
- Don't skip any of the essential components prior to constructing the shower.
- Shower head water flow is multiplied by a thermostatic mixer shower.
- The bigger the hot water storage tank, the more it will benefit you.
- Boosters are excellent to have, but they will not work on combi boilers or with cold water mains straight from the mains.
- Installing a shower tray is a straightforward operation, but not all shower trays are the same.
- To start, you will need to have your shower tray, mixing valve, plumbing, and tiling in place.
- Some door options include hinged or pivoting doors, folding or sliding doors.
- First, you will need to decide how you will run the drainage pipes and how much depth you will need under the tray for the plumbing.
- Ensure that wall plugs are fully inserted into the holes, so that they protrude below the tile's surface.
- We work with approved professionals to guarantee that your bathroom remodeling proceeds without any problems.